Salvador, Brazil

Salvador is where the Portuguese first arrived in Brazil, the birthplace of MPB, and where I was born (just as relevant as the others). It is a very well-known but unknown place in Brazil for foreigners. The city is fantastic, but it is definitely what most foreigners would expect when visiting, so I am writing this entry as a guide and a disclaimer on how to see Salvador as a foreigner, truly enjoy it, and get the most out of it.

If not visiting the city properly, it can be a disappointing experience. I can say with certainty that this is one of my favorite cities in the world, and so will be yours if you visit it properly (differently from them). In the extreme heat of the city and with warm and welcoming people, the city has lots to offer.

Transportation (Womp Womp)

Moving around in Salvador is a headache; it is not a walkable city. Don't expect to change that from it either, it is a highways and byways (yes, I'm quoting Niall Horan) type city, and it is impossible to move around without hopping on a vehicle. I would not recommend public transportation for many reasons such as safety and not trusting a foreigner in a bus in Brazil (subway system does not cover tourist spots), so if you are down for paying Ubers (or 99 - Brazilian version - we still have Uber though) around or renting a car, then visit the city!

But, Bia, what is there to do in Salvador?
There are so many places to visit in Salvador that I could do a 10-meter long list. First of all, the Múseu da Música is a music museum right next to the Pelourinho (get back to it in a minute) and it talks about Brazilian music and its history, since its origin, from the European, Indigenous, and Afro influences to how it looks today. 

Then, of course, the Pelourinho, many people, even Brazilians, go there and don't even know what the name means. Pelourinho is where enslaved people used to be punished by their owners, for whatever purpose they found fit. The place holds such a significant historical significance to the city, as Salvador is the blackest city in the world outside of Africa, and Brazil was the last country to abolish slavery in the Western world. That place is also the home to Olodum, a traditional Brazilian music group with its roots in Afro-descendants tied back to the historical relevance of the place.

There, it is also possible to see Igreja de São Francisco, a quite ironic spot, a beautiful church, full of gold picked up from the gold mines by the enslaved people, right next to where they were punished and built for their owners and the Salvador elite to go and visit. The city is an open museum, and with an open mindset, you will learn lots from it.

A bit further from there is Elevador Lacerda, the first public urban elevator in the world, which divides the upper and lower city. Unless you take this elevator, you must take a long route around the town to get down or up. Don't expect a scenic ride, this elevator was built during the 19th century, but it is interesting to see how something that they built so horses wouldn't have to go all the way around the city is still applicable for cars 200 years later.

Sun, beach, and heat

That is something in Salvador. I come from a very privileged family, and I have the privilege to say that most locals (from the elite) don't usually go to the beach in Salvador. At least not often, and not the public ones, not because they are bad, but because the few good ones are crowded. 

I hope you don't expect going to Brazil and hopping into a Mediterranean sea, see-through water ocean, Hawaii experience, we are in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, but the few good beaches we have, that are not completely dirty, like Praia da Barra, are going to be overflowing with people on a Sunday, especially those Sundays when its over 30 degrees, you'll be listening to a confusion of music from all around, and to be honest it can be pretty unpleasant.

The Salvador elite don't like to mix and usually avoid going to those beaches, preferably driving an hour to their secondary homes at Praia do Forte or Itacimirim. Still, if you are in town, and want to run from the crowds, my from experience tip would be to get a boat, there are a few that you pay per person and come cheap, and go island hopping. It is fantastic, and the experience will be much more pleasant than staying stuck on one loud beach.

For the Foodies 

For all the foodies, a disclaimer. Salvador is not the best place to eat, but not the worst. For a long time in my life I had the perception that eating abroad was so good until I spent time abroad and realized how bad it was. In Brazil, such a wide variety of high-quality restaurants offering different cuisines surprises me. 

I'm not super knowledgeable of all the good places here, but I know that the best sushi spot is for sure Soho, the best pasta you'll find is Alfredo (my opinion), and if you want to try local food, go to Ori, theirs is THE BEST.